Binche is a typical Belgium town about an hour by train from Brussels, but crowded with hundreds and hundreds of people today! The centrepiece of the carnival's proceedings is the clown-like performers known as Gilles. They are dressed in a vibrant costume, wax mask and wooden clogs. The honour of being a Gilles is something to be aspired to by local men.
At dawn, the first one goes to the home of the second one, has raw oysters and champagne with him; then they go to pick up the third one, have oysters and champagne together; then pick up the fourth one, and so on until there are a large group of them (all stuffed with oysters and champagne!). They appear in the streets doing a kind of stomp-dance to the sound of drummers who accompany them. In their hands they carry a bundle of twigs to ward off evil spirits and chase away winter.
A few others groups (Sociétés) are also dressed up and walking around the streets:
la Société des Paysans (peasants): they wear a blue smock with white cuffs and gloves, a hat decorated with two ostrich feathers and long white ribbons. they are future Gilles.
la Société des Arlequins (jesters): they wear a costume made of a textile printed with yellow, red and green triangles, a black belt and their green felt hat has a black & grey fur tail.
la Société des Pierrots: their costume is in pastel colours. They wear a conical hat trimmed in lace with a white ribbon at the top, and a black mask. The viola accompanies the children as they walk around and dance in groups. The viola is a transpostable barrel organ whose keyboard and bellows work with a cyclinder moved by a handle.
The flower of the Carnival is the yellow mimosa, one of the first trees in flower in spring. It`s flowering now. There were vendors all over the main square.
In the afternoon, there is an amazing procession that winds its way through a few streets up to the main square where everyone dances (if you can find room!!) to the music of bands and drummers. The parade has its usual horses, policemen, Red Cross workers, town councillors and important people However, the beauty is the parade of the Pierrots, the Paysans and the Arlequins, and then the pièce de résistance is the Gilles, who have traded in their mask for a white hat with HUGE white ostrich feathers - absolutely unique! Apparently they're worth hundreds of euros. Breathtaking!
They all carry baskets of oranges which they throw to the crowds. Fun! In the morning as I wandered around, I wondered why the windows on the upper floors of the buildings along the parade route all had chicken wire or a grill over the window panes. Now I understand why: the performers really heave their oranges!
The day ends with a huge bonfire in the main square.
A once-in-a-lifetime experience I wouldn't want to have missed.
